Seeing Kunming - Dali - Lijiang - Shingri-la Group

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Last Update: Sept 16, 2010

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Dali Oct 3 #Night   2 Reserved? Y/N LPMapPg: 700
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Scheduled Time 2010/10/03 - 2010/10/04
Hostel Name Four Seasons Youth Hostel Dali
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Three Pagodas   http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/dali/3pagodas.htm
Three pagodas, about 1 kilometer (0.6 mile) northwest of the ancient city of Dali, occupying a scenic location at the foot of Mt. Cangshan facing Erhai Lake, has a history of over 1,800 years. It is a symbol of the history of Dali City, and a record of the development of Buddhism in the area. As its name implies, Three Pagodas are made of three ancient independent pagodas forming a symmetrical triangle. This is unique in China. A visit to theThree Pagodas should not be missed by any visitor to Dali City.

The middle pagoda, Qianxun Pagoda, 69.13 meters (227 feet) high, is one of the highest pagodas of the Tang Dynasty (618 - 907), while the other lower two stand to the north and south sides of it. Qianxun Pagoda, now empty, previously could be climbed by ladder from the inside. However the ladder is now broken, and travelers now have no opportunity to climb up. Three Pagodas, Zhaozhou Bridge of Hebei Province, and Big Wild Goose Pagoda in Xian, Shaanxi Province, are three curiosities of Chinese ancient architecture.

Many sculptures of Buddha made of gold, silver, wood or crystal, Buddhist readings, and more than 600 various medicinal ingredients were found in Qianxun Pagoda, playing an important role in explaining the ancient history of Dali City. Study of Three Pagodas and the cultural relics that have been excavated at the site provide significant data for exploring the history, religion, and art of the area. Today, travelers can visit Three Pagodas at night, when it is illuminated providing a fantastic scene. Nearby on the 'marble street' there are many folk-craft workshops and stands specializing in marble and brick-painting.

Known for its resilience, Three Pagodas has survived several eras of severe earthquakes. The local government still makes a great effort to strengthen it to make it as strong as when it was built to ensure the preservation of this architectural treasure.
Admission Fee: CNY 120
Recommended Time for a Visit: Two hours
Opening Hours: 08:00 to 19:00
Mt. Cangshan (Cangshan Mountain) dăy Thương Sơn
Have you ever heard about Mt. Cangshan in Dali City in Yunnan Province? Flower enthusiasts or 'green thumbs' may be familiar with this mountain because of the beautiful azalea flowers grown here.

Mt. Cangshan, also called Diancang Mountain, was once named Xiongcang Mountain and in ancient times was called Lingjiu Mountain. Mt. Cangshan is made of 19 peaks and make up the highest peaks of the Yunling Mountain Range. All are 3,500 meters (11,483 feet) above the sea level and at 4,122-meter (13,524-feet), Malong Peak is the highest. In between every two peaks are streams, and water rushes down the mountain and pours into Erhai Lake. These streams originate from spring water or thawing snow and irrigate the farmlands around.

Cangshan Mountain enjoys great reputation for its snow, clouds, springs and marble.

The unmelted snow on Mt. Cangshan is top of the Four Famous Scenes (wind, flowers, snow and moon) in Dali. The snow is so dazzling and splendent when the sun rises, especially in March. On a moonlight night, the snow reflecting off the mountain makes one feel that they are in a crystal world. The Bai People have many beautiful stories about the snowcapped mountains. One story goes that a plague god intruded the city of Dali and the local people suffered from endless plagues. In order to save them, a brother and sister went to a place named Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva to learn magic. With their magic skills, the twosome beat the plague god and forced him to stay at the top of Cangshan Mountain. There he was frozen stiff. The sister became the god of snow at Xueren Peak in order to keep the plague god under control. Since then the mountain has been adorned by shiny and amazing snow.

The clouds here changes often - sometimes the clouds are thin as silk, sometimes they are as dark as ink. The most magical and beautiful clouds look like Yudai Cloud (a jade belt) and Wangfu Cloud (a woman who expects to see her husband). Yudai Cloud looks like a fairy holding a jade belt and usually appears after rain in the late summer or early autumn. It is said to be the sign of good harvest for the Bai People. The offwhite Wangfu Cloud emerges at the top of Yuju Peak in spring and winter. Legend has it that it is an avatar of a girl of Bai Minority Group.

The springs here are also famous. Besides the eighteen streams, there are still many lakes over the altitude of over 3,800 meters (12,467 feet). The lakefronts are densely covered with forests, which include valuable medicine materials, rare species of trees and many kinds of flowers. The flowers add even more beauty to the mountain and help attract tourists.

Mt. Cangshan is a famous manufacture center of a smooth marble, named Cangshan Stone. The Caihua Stone distinguish itself by its unique patterns. Natural scenes of mountains, flowers, birds or people appear once it is polished. What's more, the exquisite craftworks made of marble are sold here and abroad.

Besides the natural scenery, visitors can see cultural relics of the Bai people here. Three Pagodas, Inaction Temple, Three Pools in Qingbi Temple and Zhonghe Temple are all tourists attractions.

If you don't want to climb the mountain, take the ropeway or rent a horse in the nearby town. Make sure to prepare enough food and water and to wear comfortable clothes and shoes, for it's a rather challenging journey with no restaurants on the mountain.

Admission Fee: CNY 30 (Resource Protection Fare)
CNY 60 (through ticket for Zhonghe Temple Telpher)
CNY 80 (through ticket for Gantong Temple Telpher)
Recommended Time for a Visit: Two hours
Opening Hours: 08:30 to 18:00

 

Yan's Compound of Bai Minority in Xizhou http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/dali/yan-compound.htm
The dwellings of the ethnic minority of Bai in Dali, Yunnan Province always make a strong impression on the traveler. Gradually, the Bai style architecture came into being. Over many years the Bai craftsmen practiced creating traditional Chinese dwellings, all the while cultivating a breathtaking architectural style to call their own.Yan's Compound in Xizhou is the most representative of Bai-style residences, about 13 kilometers (8.08 miles) from Dali City. The compound covers an area of about 3,066 square meters (0.76 acres), built around the 1920's. As a whole, it is divided into four parts and each part is cleverly linked together. After visiting this impressive compound, one will ameliorate the admiration for its magnificence and the Bai people's architectural gifts.
Upon entering, one's eyes will fall upon the principal house with it's screen wall and two wings. According to the tradition of Bai-style architecture, the screen wall should face east in order to make use of the early morning sun and reflect the light into the inner rooms. Additionally, the screen wall, adorned with elaborate caligraphy and paintings, is considered as a talisman; the Bai people believe it brings good blessing. Walking inside, one will see the second and then the third parts, each of the parts is enclosed by four houses with four small rooms built between each of the houses; a unique architectural style in Dali called "sihe wutianjing". The final house of the compound embraces a modern, western architectural style."Sandaocha" is a traditional regional tea ceremony consisting of three unique tea flavors, and is an experience not to be missed in Yan's compound. The host begins by presenting a bitter tea which stands for the hardships in life. Then, a sweet tea of sesame and walnut symbolic of happiness in life. Finally, a bitter, sweet, and spicy tea symbolic of pondering life
The Bai architecture and culture will fascinate the traveler. This stop in Xizhou is one not to be left unexplored!
How to get there: Take the bus of "Dali to Xizhou" and get off at its destination and from there you can walk to the Yan's compound.
All Inclusive Ticket: CNY40 (including the admission fee and the fee of some performances)
Động Thiên Long (Should Not Go)
Chúng tôi không đi xem phim trường Thiên Long Bát Bộ. Thay vào đó, cả đoàn dắt díu nhau ṃ lên động Thiên Long trên một quả núi thuộc dăy Thương Sơn. Thời tiết ở Đại Lư thật hết sức đỏng đảnh. Khi chúng tôi bắt đầu rời làng Hỷ Châu, một cơn mưa xối xả như tát nước vào cửa kính đă đổ ập xuống. Mưa lớn đến nỗi nước chảy thành ḍng cuồn cuộn trên đường vào động Thiên Long. Đoạn đường vào động này đang được thi công nên rất xóc, anh chị em liên tục trong t́nh trạng không cắn thuốc mà vẫn bay (theo đúng nghĩa đen của từ này).
Cuối cùng th́ xe cũng dừng lại tại băi đất rộng phía trước bến cáp treo lên động Thiên Long. Vé cáp treo khoảng 50Y/người, "thẻ sinh viên" không được sử dụng tại đây. Đă đến rồi chẳng nhẽ lại không lên, thế là 14 kẻ lang thang lại h́ hục mua vé rồi cuốc bộ ra bến cáp treo để rồi thất vọng tập 1. Những khoang cáp treo lên động Thiên Long có thể nói là cực kỳ sơ sài và thiếu an toàn. Nh́n thoáng qua thôi cũng biết cáp treo này hoạt động từ thời mà phần lớn trong số chúng tôi c̣n đang tập đi.
Thất vọng th́ thất vọng chứ cũng đành phó mặc, mua vé mất rồi c̣n đâu. Anh chị em lại ngồi cáp treo để lên động Thiên Long rồi thất vọng tập 2. Cái động chả có ǵ là thú vị, vẫn rặt những thứ xanh xanh đỏ đỏ, những sự tích khiên cưỡng được gắn vào các khối thạch nhũ. Ḷng ṿng chán chê hết trèo lên lại trèo xuống ở trong động, cả đoàn được chiêm ngưỡng ảnh của bạn Đoàn Dự (tất nhiên, là do bạn Lâm Chí Dĩnh thủ vai trong phim Thiên Long Bát Bộ).

Sự chán nản chỉ vơi đi chút ít khi tất cả ra khỏi động Thiên Long và tới được một mỏm đá có thể phóng tầm mắt ngắm đoạn phía Bắc của hồ Nhĩ Hải. Thế nhưng, nói ǵ th́ nói, động Thiên Long vẫn là nỗi thất vọng thứ hai sau làng cổ Hỷ Châu.
 
Dali Travel Guide http://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/dali.htm
Located northwest of the Yunnan Province, 300 kilo-meters (186 miles) northwest of Kunming, Dali City is the economic and cultural center of the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture. The area is surrounded by mountains on the east, west, and south, and has the Erhai Lake in its center. Here you will find 25 ethnic minorities, which have created a unique cultural heritage amidst the area's picturesque surroundings.

Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake are praised as Dali's leading scenic areas. Most attractions in Dali lie between these two landmarks, such as the Butterfly Spring, and the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple. Ethnic minorities have inhabited Dali for generations, with the Bai Minority making up the majority of Dali's population (65%). The customs of the ethnic minorities bring charm to daily life in Dali. Each spring, celebrations and festivals bring the city to life. Celebrations such as the March Street Festival and Butterfly Fest provide excellent opportunities to learn about local folk customs.

The Three Pagodas
The Three Pagodas, Chongsheng Temple
As early as 4,000 years ago, the ancestors of the Bai people settled in the Dali area. In the Second Century AD, it was brought into the territory of the central government of Han Dynasty (206 BC-220AD). Two ethnic states, the Nanzhao State (738-937) in Tang Dynasty (618-907), and the Dali State (937-1253) in Song Dynasty (960-1279), were once established here as well. Throughout the ages, Dali remained an intermediary area linking economic and cultural communications between ancient China and other countries via India. The remains of Dali Tai He City and the Dali Ancient City bear witness to thousands of years of historic changes in Dali. Together with the Xizhou Town and the Zhoucheng Village, the ancient towns in Dali show the best of historic customs of daily life within the Bai Minority.

Present day Dali is a city that combines history with modern convenience. It is divided into two areas- the Ancient City and the New District (widely known as Xiaguan). The Ancient City is centered around the ancient city of Dali, first built in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Ancient buildings, city walls and the old city moat are the sites most frequented by visitors. The famous Foreigner Street in the Ancient City attracts visitors with its handicrafts, and local culinary delicacies. Xiaguan, located to the south of the Ancient City, home to the government of the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture. Here hotels, public squares, and shopping centers add modernity to the otherwise historical city.

Throughout its years of development, local endeavors for advancement have been rewarded with a great rise in area living standards. Nowadays, Dali is a tourist destination replete with every convenience in transportation and public facilities, making it accessible for visitors from home and abroad.
 

Dali Attractions  http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/dali/
 Dali Ancient City
 Erhai Lake
 Mt. Cangshan
 Three Pagodas
 Yan's Compound

 Butterfly Spring
 Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture Museum
 Dali Municipal Museum
 Tie-dyeing

Dali, a city of great antiquity, beckons the visitor in any season and is always a tempting destination for those interested in exploring fascinating natural scenery and the area's considerable historical and cultural heritage. It is renowned as a land of wonders, both natural and manmade, inspiring in visitors a great appetite for its beauty.

Attractions in Dali City
If a shortlist of Dali's attractions was to be drawn up, the 'silver Cangshan Mountains' and the 'jade Erhai Lake' would top it. They are usually the firstchoice destinations for visitors.

Composed of nineteen peaks lining up from north to south, the Mt. Cangshan, located to the west of Erhai Lake, have an average altitude of 3,500 meters (11,483 feet) with the tops perpetually covered in snow. Eighteen streams between the nineteen peaks of the mountain flow eastwards to the lake. The ear-shaped Erhai Lake is referred to as 'a pearl on the plateau' with an area of about 250 square kilometers (97 square miles). Every year in the Mid-autumn Festival, people living around the lake sail on the clear, green water and admire the golden moon reflectedin the lake. This is the most romantic place in Dali. The snow on the mountains and the bright moon above the lake symbolize the vows between lovers. The Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture Museum is near the Erhai Dock, which is a garden museum with strong local ethnic minority's characteristics.

Running from north to south, the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake form one of the most enchanting sights to be seen in Dali. Proceeding northward from Xiaguan, Erhai Park, established in 1976, is the first stop along the way to Erhai Lake. It is located at the south end of the lake and provides a panoramic view of thearea. Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) north of Xiaguan, Dali Ancient City was first constructed in the early Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) at the foot of the Cangshan Mountains. This simple and tranquil city is characterized by the dwellinghouses of the Bai Minority. It is a must-see destination in Dali, ranking as one of the most noted historical and cultural cities in China. Nearly all the specialities of Dali are available here. Huoguo Road, or Foreigner Street, is the central thoroughfare where most westerners assemble. Apart from the local foods and handicrafts that are available, plentiful cafes, bars and distinctive restaurants also attract visitors from both home and abroad.
 
Several historical sites worth visiting are within easy reach of the ancient city, Dali Tai He City, 7 kilometers (4 miles) south of Dali Ancient City, still shows its style as the seat of the central regime of the Nanzhao State although it was deserted after the Ming Dynasty. One kilometer (0.6 miles) north of Dali city, the Three Pagodas at the site of Chongsheng Temple are classic Buddhist pagodas of the Tang Dynasty and are regarded as the symbol of Dali.

Eighteen kilometers (11 miles) north of Dali Ancient City is Xizhou Town. This was a crucial military area in the Nanzhao State and is characterized by several Bai ethnic architectural complexes, such as the Yan's Compound ,and the Hou's Compound. Zhoucheng Village is 23 kilometers (14 miles) north of Dali Ancient City. It was once the imperial garden of Dali State. As the largest natural village of Bai in Yunnan, it is famous not only for the Butterfly Spring, but also for its perfect preservation of Bai ethnic customs. Not far from Zhoucheng Village, Butterfly Spring lies at the foot of Yunnong Peak, the northernmost peak of the Cangshan Mountains. It is always a romantic place and the spring is a symbol of love's loyalty.

Additionally, in the city, you can go to visit Dali Municipal Museum .Once named Marshal Mansion, it was originally home to Du Wenxiu well known for leading the Hui ethnic minority revolt against the Qing Dynasty in 1856.

Attractions around Dali City
Around Dali City, there are many other interesting destinations well worth visiting. For example, Jizu Mountain in the northeast of Binchuan County, Weibao Mountain in the southeast of  Weishan County and Shibao Mountain in the southwest of Jianchuan County are all scenic areas with notable religious sites. Among them, the one hundred and thirty-nine stone Buddha statues in sixteen grottoes within the Shibao Mountain Scenic Area will intrigue any visitor who is interested in Buddhist artifacts. If time is not pressing, you can also go to visit Zhoucheng County,Dali. It is famed for the tie-dyeing. Tie-dyeing is a technology of printing flower patterns on cloth. As the name suggests, the process is divided into 'tie' and 'dye'.

 

Dali Ancient City
Dali Ancient City is 13 kilometers (8.1 miles) away from Xiaguan in Dali City, Yunnan Province and is one of the 'Three Ancients' (Ancient Cities, Ancient Pagodas and Ancient Steles) of the Dali Scenic Spot. It can be dated back to the year 1382 during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and has been among the top listed historical cities of China since 1982. With Erhai Lake to the east, and Cangshan Mountain to the west, its grand city wall, traditional Bai ethnic minority folk houses and marvelous scenery have been attracting many visitors.

According to literature, Dali Ancient City was a gateway to the Silk Road in Southwest China, and also served as a seat of government and a major military barracks for Yunnan Province in ancient times. It enjoyed magnificent scale, with a wall length of 6 kilometers (3.73 miles), a height of 7.5 meters (24.6 feet) and a thickness of 6 meters (19.7 feet). There were four city gates facing west, east, north and south, upon which sat a gate tower. Four further towers were also placed at the four corners of the city wall. As it underwent many phases of prosperity as well as decline, only the city base remains till today. We can explore the mystery belonging to that period of history, especially through witnessing some parts of the city wall, the North City Wall Tower and the South City Wall Tower which were restored in 1982. The city layout was uniform, with five main streets from south to north and eight main streets from east to west, while marketplaces were neatly arranged within the city, which has remained unchanged to this date.

The traditional Bai ethnic minority folk houses give the city distinctive feel, unlike any other Chinese city. A typical house is characterized by '3 rooms and a wall screening' and '4 joints and 5 courtyards'. '3 rooms and a wall screening' means that every house has a principle room and two wing-rooms and facing the principle room stands the wall screening. When the sun shines on the wall screening in the afternoon, the sunlight is reflected back to the courtyard, thus illuminating the whole area. '4 joints and 5 courtyards' means houses are built with four sides; and four courtyards in the joining parts of the houses' corners and one big courtyard in the center makes five courtyards. The decoration is another construction feature of the folk residences, paying great attention to the gate tower, the eaves and corners. The windows, doors and the wall screening are adorned with Jianchuan woodcarvings, colored patterns, marbles and wash drawings. The delicacy, freshness and elegance of their construction may be called first-class among folk residences in Southwest China.

When people walk along the cobble-paved streets in the ancient city, a sense of primitive simplicity and elegance will be invoked. Besides the Bai ethnic minority traditional folk houses, the houses all with grey-green roof tiles, peculiar workshops, temples, schools and churches with an antique flavor are scattered. Traditional artworks made of marble, such as pencil vases, striped screens, and a variety of woven handicrafts made of fine straw are laid chockablock on both sides of the street to be appreciated and purchased. The newly–opened Foreigner Street is also a must-see, providing snacks with the traditional flavors of the Bai ethnic community, as well as the famous 'Three-course Tea' ceremony for receiving guests that includes 'bitter tea', 'sweet tea' and 'final tea'.

Bus Route: No 4, No 8, from Xiaguan, CNY 1.2 for the bus fare Dali Ancient City will charge each tourist CNY 30 (Ancient City Maintenance Fee) for accessing the Dali Ancient Town and Erhai. It is a measure taken by the Yunan Provincial Development and Reform Committee to raise fund for the protection and maintenance of the old town of Dali. The policy will come into effect at the end of this year

Dạo chơi thành cổ

Nằm kẹp giữa dăy Thương Sơn cao vời vợi và mặt hồ Nhĩ Hải rộng tới 250km2, thành cổ Đại Lư cứ thoắt nắng rồi lại thoắt mưa. Những cơn ập tới một cách chóng vánh và rồi lại biến mất cũng nhanh như khi chúng đổ xuống thành cổ. Nắng nắng rồi lại mưa mưa, mưa mưa rồi lại nắng nắng...
Lót dạ bằng một bữa sáng xa xỉ lên tới hơn 400Y/14 người (đói quá nên thành ra thiếu hẳn sự sáng suốt khi gọi món), chúng tôi vững dạ (theo đúng nghĩa đen của chữ "dạ") để bắt đầu khám phá một ṿng thành cổ Đại Lư. Trước khi đi, thấy nhiều người chê Đại Lư chỉ là cái bóng mờ nhạt của Lệ Giang và cũng nhiều người khuyên nếu bỏ qua thành cổ này cũng chẳng có ǵ phải tiếc. Riêng PeterPan th́ thấy khác, nếu chịu khó để ư quan sát và có sự chuẩn bị về thông tin thật cẩn thận trước khi lên đường, bạn sẽ thấy Đại Lư cũng có những nét thú vị riêng.
PeterPan thích sự sạch sẽ và chỉn chu của Đại Lư. Một cửa hàng đốt pháo để khai trương nhưng bánh pháo phải đốt trong thùng phuy để hạn chế tối thiểu xác pháo rơi ra vỉa hè. Ngay khi bánh pháo nổ hết, người ta lại nhanh chóng thu dọn những xác pháo vụn vương văi phía ngoài để bỏ nốt vào thung phuy. Cái sạch sẽ của Đại Lư c̣n là những con suối trong vắt và... không mùi. Tất nhiên, chẳng có ǵ hoàn hảo, Đại Lư cũng có những góc nhôm nhoam, nhưng nh́n chung vẫn c̣n sạch sẽ chán để chí ít là du khách c̣n cảm thấy thoải mái khi dạo trên những con đường lát đá.
Dạo chơi chán chê trục Bắc - Nam của thành cổ, PeterPan và các bạn bắt một chiếc xe điện với giá 26Y/người ở cửa thành phía Nam để thư thái đi dạo một lượt các ngơ ngách của Đại Lư. Chiếc xe điện từ từ đưa chúng tôi đi xem hết các cổng thành Đông, Tây, Nam, Bắc, ghé qua đền thờ Quan Vũ ở rất gần Four Seasons Youth Hostel và tham quan một nhà thờ Ki-tô giáo nhưng lại có kiến trúc bên ngoài theo kiểu Trung Hoa truyền thống. Đặc biệt, chiếc xe điện luồn lách cả vào những ngơ nhỏ vắng người qua lại và đó là một trải nghiệm khác hẳn so với những ǵ ồn ào, náo nhiệt trên trục Bắc - Nam của thành Đại Lư

Dạo trên tường thành
Trong lúc các bạn khác bị hút vào những hàng bán đồ lưu niệm đầy màu sắc, PeterPan và Ms Jica tranh thủ đi về phía cổng Nam của thành cổ. Nh́n trước ngó sau một hồi, chúng tôi phát hiện ra có lối dẫn lên phía trên tường thành. Nếu lên theo lối cầu thang ngay gần cổng Nam, mỗi người sẽ phải tốn 2Y tiền vé. Tuy nhiên, có một kinh nghiệm cho các đoàn đi sau đó là có thể chịu khó đi men theo tường thành để phát hiện những lối cầu thang dẫn lên phía trên tường thành mà không phải mất 2Y/người. Tiết kiệm được 2Y cũng chẳng đáng là bao nhưng cái cảm giác trốn vé th́ luôn luôn thú vị :-D.
Khi đă lên tới con đường ở phía trên tường thành, bạn có thể nhàn tản thả bước, vừa đi dạo một cách thư thái, vừa ngắm nh́n thành cổ từ trên cao, lại vừa có thể phóng tầm mắt ra một không gian rất rộng ở xung quanh. Từ đoạn tường thành ở gần cổng Nam, có thể nh́n thấy tháp chùa Hoằng Thánh, tam tháp Đại Lư và cả hồ Nhĩ Hải (đă giới thiệu ở trang trước của topic).

Ngũ Hoa Lầu
http://www.phuot.com/threads/7674-Shangri-La-2010-T́m-thấy-Đường-chân-trời-đă-mất/page3 
Cách cổng Nam thành Đại Lư không xa là một ṭa kiến trúc có tên: Ngũ Hoa Lầu. Có thể nói không ngoa rằng đây là ṭa nhà có kiến trúc vào loại đẹp nhất trong thành cổ Đại Lư và cũng là nơi thu hút được sự chú ư của hầu hết du khách mỗi khi tới đây.
Ngũ Hoa Lầu vừa mang dáng dấp bề thế của một cổng thành, vừa có những nét tinh tế của một ṭa kiến trúc nguy nga tráng lệ. Với chiều cao nổi bật, Ngũ Hoa Lầu rất dễ được du khách nhận ra nếu họ đi trên trục đường nối 2 cổng thành Bắc và Nam của thành Đại Lư.
Xung quanh Ngũ Hoa Lầu là những hồ nước nhỏ và những bồn hoa được cắt tỉa, chăm sóc cẩn thận. Tầng đầu tiên của Ngũ Hoa Lầu là khối kiến trúc dạng tường thành, phía trên là một khối kiến trúc dạng tháp 3 tầng với những mái cong nhọn hoắt đâm lên nền trời.
PeterPan không có thật nhiều thông tin về Ngũ Hoa Lầu và cũng không kịp lên xem ṭa lầu nguy nga này. Chẳng biết bao giờ mới trở lại Đại Lư nhưng cũng đành bụng bảo dạ thôi th́ để lần sau vậy...

Ḍng suối gần Ngũ Hoa Lầu
Nằm chen giữa Ngũ Hoa Lầu và cổng Nam thành Đại Lư là một ḍng suối khá đặc biệt. Người ta đă chủ động tạo cho ḷng suối theo dạng bậc thang để tạo ḍng chảy liên tục và cũng đồng thời tạo nên một cảnh quan đẹp mắt. Đại Lư có không ít ḍng suối nhưng ḍng suối ngay sát Ngũ Hoa Lầu là đặc biệt nhất.
Từ hướng chảy của ḍng suối, có thể dễ dàng nhận ra rằng nó chảy từ trên dăy Thương Sơn xuống, cắt ngang thành cổ Đại Lư theo hướng từ Tây sang Đông rồi đổ ra hồ Nhĩ Hải bao la. Ḍng suối tự nó đă rất trong và sạch sẽ nhưng sự sắp đặt của con người c̣n khiến nó trở nên lung linh hơn gấp nhiều lần.
Chẳng rơ PeterPan đă đứng lại để ngắm nh́n ḍng chảy ấy bao lâu, chỉ biết là ngay lúc này đây vẫn c̣n như đang nghe thấy tiếng róc rách, róc rách... Đó là một cảnh tượng thật êm đềm, nhẹ nhàng và thanh thoát.

 

Erhai Lake
Erhai Lake is the largest highland lake next to Dianchi and one of the seven biggest fresh water lakes in China. It means, 'sea shaped like an ear', in Chinese. Implying that the lake is ear shaped and as large as a sea, hence it was so named. The lake covers an area of 250 square kilometers and is located about two kilometers east of Dali. It is like a crescent lying between Cangshan and Dali city as seen from Cangshan Mount. In a sunny day, the crystal waters of Erhai Lake and the snow mantled Cangshan Mount radiate with each other. Thus the scene was commonly described as 'Silver Cangshan and Jade Erhai'.

The surrounding islands, temples and villages are worth visiting too. Golden Shuttle Island (Jinsuo Dao), and the nearby fishing community of Bai Minority do really deserve a visit with its attractive Bai culture and lifestyle, and because of the rare beauty of the lake and its surrounding scenery. The most unforgettable Xiaoputuo Dao, originally devoted to Bodhisattva Kwan-yin, can be traced back to the 15th century. Though tiny and called xiao (which means small in Chinese), one can still experience and see the typical ancient Chinese Buddhist temple's unique architectural styles of its buildings' pointed eaves and decorations on this peninsular.

To give the people and tourists alike the convenience of watching the lake, Erhai Lake Park was built. In spring, the place is transformed into a wonderland of flowers like camellias, azaleas and primrose, and abundant exotic trees.

It only cost 5 Yuan by taxi from any place in Dali town. So what can prevent you from enjoying the unpolluted and 'immaculate jade' waters of Erhai?

Admission Fee: CNY 10 (Erhai Park)
CNY 30 (Resource Protection Fare)
Recommended
Time for a Visit:
40 minutes
Opening Hours: 08:30 to 18:00
Thương Sơn, Nhĩ Hải và Đại Lư


Thành cổ Đại Lư nằm ở vị trí chen giữa dăy Thương Sơn và hồ Nhĩ Hải. Đây là một vị trí rất đắc địa, tựa sơn đạp thủy, rất có ưu thế khi cần phải pḥng thủ. Chuyện kể rằng khi nhà Nguyên tiến đánh thành Đại Lư đă vấp phải sự kháng cự quyết liệt và không sao hạ được thành. Sau rồi, tướng nhà Nguyên nghĩ ra cách cho quân lính chạy lên phía cổng thành, mỗi người ném 1 mũi tên xuống, một hồi lâu th́ tên chất thành núi. Quan quân trong thành Đại Lư thấy thế kinh hăi mới mở cổng thành xin đầu hàng. Một dị bản khác về chuyện thành Đại Lư thất thủ lại nói rằng một kẻ phản bội đă dẫn quan quân nhà Nguyên theo một con đường bí mật vượt dăy Thương Sơn để đánh úp. Tựu chung lại, nếu không v́ những lư do kể trên, thành Đại Lư không thể bị thất thủ

Dăy Thương Sơn (dài 50km, rộng 20km) xưa kia vốn là một dăy núi tuyết. Ngày nay, nó vẫn là một dăy núi sừng sững soi bóng xuống hồ Nhĩ Hải. Thương Sơn có nghĩa là núi màu xanh. Cái tên hồ Nhĩ Hải th́ không đơn giản như vậy. Nguyên gốc tên hồ là Nhị Hải nhưng v́ h́nh dáng của hồ giống với một cái tai nên hay được gọi bằng Nhĩ Hải - cái tên được biết đến rộng răi hơn rất nhiều. Hồ được cung cấp nước bởi 18 con suối chảy từ trên dăy Thương Sơn xuống. 18 ḍng suối nhưng lại có 19 đỉnh núi, đó chính là chất liệu để người Bạch ở Đại Lư sáng tác những câu chuyện hấp dẫn về sự trớ trêu khi có 19 chàng trai nhưng lại chỉ có 18 cô gái. Trong h́nh là những nét vẽ mô tả 19 đỉnh của dăy Thương Sơn (18 ḍng suối được mô tả rơ ở h́nh phía trên). Đỉnh cao nhất trong dăy Thương Sơn đạt tới 4122m, đỉnh thấp nhất cũng tới 3666m. 19 đỉnh của dăy Thương Sơn gồm: Vân Lộng, Thương Lăng, Ngũ Đài, Liên Hoa, Bạch Vân, Hạc Vân, Tam Dương, Lan Phong, Tuyết Nhân, Ứng Nhạc, Quan Âm, Trung Ḥa, Long Tuyền, Ngọc Cục, Mă Long (cao nhất), Thánh Ứng, Phật Đính, Mă Nhĩ, Tà Dương

Khu vực thành cổ Đại Lư ngày nay chính là khu kinh thành của vương quốc Đại Lư vang bóng một thời từng được nhà văn Kim Dung đưa vào cuốn Thiên Long Bát Bộ. Khu thành cổ này không c̣n giữ được toàn bộ các đoạn tường thành nhưng vẫn c̣n giữ khá nguyên trạng 4 cổng thành Đông, Tây, Nam, Bắc. Trong thành, các con đường đều được lát đá nhẵn thín. Những con suối chảy từ trên dăy Thương Sơn đi qua thành trước khi đổ ra hồ Nhĩ Hải cũng là một cảnh quan thú vị. Nh́n chung, dù không đặc sắc và rộng lớn bằng Lệ Giang nhưng thành cổ Đại Lư xứng đáng là một điểm dừng chân trong 1,2 ngày.
 

Lijiang Old Town

Lijiang Oct 5 #Night   2 Reserved? Y/N LPMapPg: 706
Lijiang Old Town  http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/lijiang/old_town.htm

The Old Town of Lijiang, a well-preserved old city of ethnic minorities with brilliant culture, is a central town of the Lijiang Autonomous County of the Naxi Ethnic Minority in Yunnan Province. Located on the plateau which is 2,400 meters (7,874 feet) above the sea level and embraced by the tree-covered Lion Mountain in the west, Elephant and Golden Row Mountains in the north, vast fertile fields in the southeast and crystal clear water running through, the old town looks like a big jade ink slab, therefore got the alias the Town of Big Ink Slab (Dayanzhen)

The Old Town which occupies an area of three point eight square kilometers (912 acres) was firstly built in the late Song Dynasty nhà Tống and the early Yuan Dynasty nhà Nguyên and has a history of more than 800 years. Since Kubla Khan who is the first emperor of the Yuan Dynasty set his reign here, Lijiang was on a fast developmental way and became the political, cultural, and educational center in this area, playing a very important role in the trading activities among Yunnan, China hinterland, Tibet, India and many other Asian countries. Till now, when walking on the streets of the Old Town, one can feel the prosperity and flourish of the town from the shops with fancy and superb collections of handicrafts.

The Lijiang Old Town is built along the lie of mountains and the flow of rivers, providing a very precious sample of the research on the old-time architecture. The unique geographical location, historical background and multiracial inhabitants make the town the most special one:

The Old Town is the only old city built without a city wall and there is an interesting story telling the reason. Lijiang had been under the reign of the hereditary Mu family for more than 500 years. If the Chinese character 'Mu' (represents the governor of Lijiang) is put into a frame (represents the city wall), you have the character 'Kun' which means 'siege' or 'predicament'. This would mean that the governing Mu family and their descendants would always be trapped like a rat in a hole. Because of this symbolism, Old Town Lijiang was never given a city wall.

As a result of the combination of the multinational culture and the progress of Naxi ethnic minority, the buildings in the town incorporate the best parts of the architectural traits of Han, Bai, and Tibet into a unique Naxi style. The layout of the town is free-style and flexible, the houses are close and diverse, and the lanes are narrow and meandering. Naxi people pay much attention to the decoration, the commodious and applied houses are mostly timber and tile structure compound with a garden, each has engraved vivid figures of people and animals on doors and windows, beautiful flowers and trees in the garden.Living in such a beautiful and comfortable environment is a real pleasant thing.
The old Town of Lijiang is a city depends on water for existence and water is just like its blood. Black Dragon Pool (Heilongtan) is the main water source of the town and subdivides into many streams which can reach every family and every street in the town. Due to the reticular aqueducts, willow trees grow everywhere and there are almost 350 varied and inimitable bridges in the little town, some of which were built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The usage of the water created by the local people is very scientific. They build three mouths every well from the upriver to the downriver. The water in the first mouth is for edibility, the second one is for cleaning of the vegetables and fruits, and the last one is used to wash the clothes. The water not only meets the need of the dweller, but also gives the town a beauty of gentle. The town reputed as the 'Oriental Venice' and 'Suzhou in Highland', but it is much, much more than this. Once you have visited Old Town Lijiang, it will capture your heart for the rest of your life.
The center of the Old Town is the Square Street (Sifangjie). Four main streets radiate from Square Street and extend to the four different directions. Countless lanes extending in all directions form a network and connect every corner of the town. Streets in the Old Town are paved by the local bluestones which are neither muddy in the rainy season nor dusty in the dry season. The massive and fine-grained stones add a sense of antiquity and mystery to the Old Town. The sluice at the center of town is opened late in the night and the resulting current of water flushes and washes all the streets to keep the town clean. This practical use of water is part of the daily life of the residents in Old Town.

On December 3rd, 1997, the Old Town of Lijiang was put in the list of the World's Relics by the World Cultural Heritage Commission of the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization). The charming Old Town is now a famous tourist attraction for its traditional ethnic culture and customs, inimitable buildings and the wonderful natural views.
Admission Fee: CNY 80 (Protection Fare)
Recommended Time for a Visit: 40 minutes
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/lijiang/jade_dragon.htm

Locating between 10004'-10016'east longitude and 2703'-2740' north latitude, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yulong Mountain) is the southernmost glacier in the Northern Hemisphere. Consisting of 13 peaks, among which Shanzidou is the highest one with an altitude of 5,600 meters (18,360 feet), Jade Dragon Snow Mountain stretches a length of 35 kilometers (22 miles) and a width of 20 kilometers (13 miles). Looking from Lijiang Old Town in the south which is 15 kilometers (nine miles) away, the snow-covered and fog-enlaced mountain resembles a jade dragon lying in the clouds, hence, the name Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

According to the geologists' research, for about 400 million years the area around Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was the ocean and it was during the last 600 thousand years that the different landscapes had come into being because of the uprising of the lithosphere. Archaic legend about this mysterious and beautiful snow mountain goes like this: Once upon a time, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain were twins. They had lived on panning in Golden Sand River until one day an evil fiend usurped the river. The brothers were very brave and had a fierce fight with the fiend, Haba died in the fight and Jade Dragon drove off the fiend after wearing out 13 swords. For guarding the people and preventing the return of the fiend, Jade Dragon held the 13 swords in hands day and night. As time passed, the brothers had turned into the two snow mountains, and the 13 swords had become the 13 peaks. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is a holy mountain for the local Naxi people not only because of the legend, but also because long time ago, it was a place for young lovers to sacrifice their young lives in honor of true love and to escape from the arranged marriages and feudal ethics.
 
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is a sanctuary for rare animals and wild plants. In fact, one fourth of all plant species in China can be found here and 20 primeval forest communities shelter a big family of 400 types of trees and 30 kinds of animals which are protected by the state. These species live in different temperature levels and create different kinds of views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The 13 peaks, which have the altitudes of at least 4,000 meters, are covered by snow all year round; the mountain is called the "Natural Glacier Museum" for it has all types of glacier. Move down from the mountaintop and you can see rivers and pools, which are formed by the thawed snow water running along the valley and through the forests. The plants and the animals are different according to the altitude, so are the views. Every sight brings you a surprise and every step takes you to a new scene.  Each of the meadows on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain has its own special character due to their different landscape and height. For instance, Yunshanping (Spruce Plateau) is grassland with gigantic spruces whilst Ganhaizi (Dry Sea) used to be a highland lake as its name tells, the meadow was formed after the water had dried up.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain now is a famous scenic spot for sightseeing, mountaineering, skiing, exploration, scientific research and taking holiday. Besides, widespread legends and myths of the Naxi ethnic minority and the unclimbed Shanzidou are all important attractive spots for those who come to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Admission Fee: CNY 80 for the entrance charge
CNY 40 for the Protection Fare of the Old Town
Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hutiao Gorge) http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/lijiang/tiger.htm
About 100 kilometers (62 miles) northwest of Lijiang Old Town lying between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yulong Xueshan) and Haba Snow Mountain (Haba Xueshan) is Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hutiao Gorge), which is believed to be the deepest gorge in the world. From the top of the gorge you look down the steeply angled (70-90 degrees) mountain sides to the rushing Golden Sands (Jingsha) River with its 18 frothing rapids more than 200 meters (about 700 feet) below.

Naturally divided into three sections, the first section, which is the narrowest and uppermost section, is the mouth of the fast flowing Jingsha River. In the midst of the river's mouth is a large rock that is positioned at the gorge's narrowest section-only 30 meters (33 yards) wide. An ancient legend says that a tiger used this rock as its stepping stone so it could leap across from one side of the gorge to the other, which is how the gorge got its name.

As the river enters the middle section, it drops another 100 meters (330 feet) and its flow rate increases to an amazing speed. Here the thunderous rushing waters slam into sharp, large rocks and crash down into the river forming swirling whirlpools. Can it get more exciting? Yes, it can as the third and lowest section is acclaimed for being the wildest attraction of all!
The cliffs over-looking this section are even steeper and much more dangerous. Here, the river twists and turns and the river vigorously surges  forward creating high waves and a frothy spew as it collides with the mountainsides. This is a view that inspires a sense of adventure and satisfies the deepest yearnings for magnificent scenery

The gorge stretches about 15 kilometers (nine miles) and also affords people the possibility of rafting and drifting peacefully in its large quiet sections, for the gentler folks among us and an exciting rafting adventure for the more experienced. Do not want to raft?

Useful Tips: This is a great sightseeing stop with enormous photo opportunities. Bring your camera, wear skidproof shoes, and be prepared to be astonished.

Admission Fee: CNY 50
Recommended
Time for a Visit:
Two hours
Opening Hours: 08:30 to 18:00
It is said there is a fairyland beneath the colorful clouds of southern China. A place blessed with fresh air, clear streams, breathtaking snow mountains, and an undisturbed landscape inhabited by a friendly group of people. Life in this fairyland is so peaceful, a fairyland called Lijiang, located at the hub of Tibet, Yunnan and Sichuan provinces.
While the geographical position of Lijiang City is remote, it has the advantage of ensuring a pleasant year round climate and a wide variety of tourist resources in the 20,600 square kilometers area. The earliest recorded history of Lijiang can be traced back to the Warring States Period (476 BC-221 BC) but with the advent of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the local economy reached a peak with the development of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road which made a great contribution to both commercial and cultural communication between Tibet, Sichuan and Yunnan provinces.
At present, Lijiang City is an attractive tourist destination in Yunnan Province that exercises jurisdiction over four counties and an Old Town District. Lijiang is the main region inhabited by Naxi Group, one of China's 55 minority ethnic groups. In its long history, the local residents have established their splendid Dongba Culture which has absorbed aspects of the culture of Tibet and the Central Plains along the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River. The various souvenirs marked with these Dongba hieroglyphs are very popular with visitors from home and abroad.
Lijiang has the best preserved ancient town in China - the Old Town which has been listed in the World Cultural Heritages by UNESCO in 1997. The Old Town was once the center of Lijiang and continues to maintain the original flavor of the local lifestyle, the typical groups of buildings and the profound cultural heritage of the region. When wandering along Square Street or any other streets in the Old Town, you will be struck by the peaceful surroundings. From enjoying the sight of the setting sun from historic hotels to local farmsteads, there are many favorable things here for travelers. Naturally, there are a number of tour destinations to enhance your visit as well. Among them, the most famous is Mufu (Mu's Palace) which should not be missed during your trip.
Around Lijiang, there are a number of splendid natural beauty spots that will certainly astonish you. If you like to see superlative natural scenery, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn which provides a majestic backdrop to the Moon-Embracing Pavilion at Black Dragon Pond will fulfill your desire. For those seeking an exotic experience in Lijiang, a visit to the Mosuo People beside Lugu Lake is a must. They are called the last 'Kingdom of Women' on earth. If you would like to experience the local lifestyle, then come and participate in one or more of their various festivals that are held throughout the year.
Lijiang does not have a direct rail link and is reached by travelers by air or by coach. However, having got to Lijiang, visiting round and about is easy with the help of the city buses, taxis or for the more energetic by bicycle. However, please don't forget to save some time to walk in Lijiang. Along your way, you must visit some of the souvenir shops and taste some local dishes and snacks. At night, the famous bar street in the Old Town is really worth a visit. No matter where you go, you will find a harmonious combination of tradition and fashion in Lijiang City.
Splendid landscapes, the exotic ways of the Naxi ethnic group and the precious Dongba Culture make up the unique city of Lijiang. Each year it attracts a great number of visitors from home and abroad. To find a fairyland far from the bustling metropolises, please do not hesitate to come to Lijiang.

In many travelers' minds, Lijiang refers to the Old Town which is an essential part of the whole Lijiang City. In the 800 years from the Southern Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the local governors and their subjects inhabited this city which has an advantageous geographical location not requiring a city wall. They created the famous Dongba Culture and the Naxi Ancient Music, and left a large group of unique Naxi buildings in this area.

Standing at Square Street, in the center of the Old Town, you will be deeply impressed by the charming town and the locals' quiet life, much like the meandering streams that wind through the town. Please slow down your steps here, and immerse yourself in a fairyland on earth.
There are a number of places of historical interest and natural scenic spots here, awaiting your exploration. Mu's Residence (Mufu), once the palace of the supreme ruler Chieftain Mu of Lijiang, was reconstructed by the World Bank in 1996 in the northwest part of Old Town. It is the best place for visitors to enjoy the splendid architectural heritage of ancient Lijiang. Jade Spring Park(Heilongtan Park) is a wonderful place about one kilometer (about 0.62 miles) away from Square Street, combining natural beauty and historical sites harmoniously. The best place to see the full extent of the Old Town is Lion Mountain Park which is just 250 meters (about 0.16 mile) from Square Street. With an altitude of 2,500 meters (8202 feet), the park has a tranquil natural environment. It also has a typical Naxi building-Wan Gu Lou (Aeon Tower) on the mountaintop and some fine Lijiang Murals. Eight kilometers (5 miles) to the north of the Old Town, you can see the architectural complex of Residential Houses of Baisha Town. In the Song and Yuan dynasties, Baisha was the political, economic and cultural center of Lijiang. It is the embryonic form of the subsequent Lijiang Old Town.The Old Town of Shuhe is another ancient town in Lijiang, which is just 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) to the northwest of the Old Town. The largest stone arch bridge in Lijiang was built here: Green Dragon Bridge. Both of these towns can be reached from the Old Town by foot or bicycle
Outside of Lijiang City, there are a great number of splendid natural attractions hosting more and more adventurers from home and abroad. The most famous one is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which is about 15 kilometers (about 9.3 miles) to the north of Lijiang City. More than 5500 meters (about 18,045 feet) above sea level, this mountain is noted for its precipitous slope and charming beauty. White Water River is a river formed by runoff from the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. At the east foot of the mountain exits an attraction, Dry Sea (Ganhai) . It had been a highland glacial lake before the 1940s and was formed after the water had dried up. And the Spruce Plateau (Yunshan Plateau) located at the foot of the mountain as well, is a large meadow hiding behind a primeval forest. At the southern foot of the mountain, you can find the famous Yufeng Temple , which is surrounded by the flourishing forest and a never-dried river. All this makes it a really good place to visit. As famous as the mountain, Lugu Lake, which is about 184 kilometers (about 114 miles) to the northeast of Lijiang City, is a must for visitors. The Mosuo People there who still maintain a matriarchal clan society today will introduce you to another one o f the Chinese minority cultures. Finally, Lijiang also prepares a series of splendid natural scenic spots for brave travelers. Three Parallel Rivers in Yunnan Protected Areas, Stone Drum and the First Bend of the Yangtze River and the Tiger Leaping Gorge are surely to astonish everyone who enjoys this majestic view.
Other Info
Ngày 5 (27/04/2010): Lệ Giang – Shangri-La (180km)
- Chúng tôi nhờ Vicky liên hệ thuê xe trọn gói cho 3 ngày để đi Shangri-La với giá 700Y/ngày.
- 10h00: 14 người khởi hành từ Lệ Giang để thẳng tiến Shangri-La.
- 11h45: Tới khúc quanh đầu tiên của sông Dương Tử.
- 12h00: Ăn trưa gần Thạch Cổ Trấn.
- 13h00: Theo tư vấn của 1 đoàn Việt Nam gặp tại quán ăn, chúng tôi ṿng lại chỗ khúc quanh để thuê dịch vụ dẫn lên núi xem toàn cảnh địa danh đặc biệt trên sông Dương Tử với giá 200Y/14 người.
- 15h00: Cả đoàn tới Tiger Leaping Gorge. Tại đây, “thẻ sinh viên” lại giúp giảm giá vé từ 50Y xuống c̣n 25Y/người. Chúng tôi đi bộ 6km trên con đường mới được làm để tới eo Hổ Nhảy.
- Rời Tiger Leaping Gorge, tất cả được nguôi ngoai phần nào sự thất vọng v́ được ngắm cả Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn và Hà Ba Tuyết Sơn, dù chỉ là từ khoảng cách khá xa.
- 20h30: Chúng tôi tới Shangri-La (Hương Cách Lư Lạp hay Trung Điện) và ăn mừng bằng một bữa lẩu ḅ Yak hoành tráng, một bữa ăn mà cả đoàn vẫn c̣n nhớ măi cho tới khi về Hà Nội.
Lệ Giang – Côn Minh (510km)
- V́ không đi được Đức Khâm do đường sửa trên toàn tuyến kể từ Shangri-La, cũng không đi được hồ Lugu v́ cả đi cả về sẽ cần tới 3 ngày mới bơ (đi 2 ngày rồi về rất vất vả) nên chúng tôi bị dôi ra 2 ngày tại Lệ Giang. Ngày đầu chính là ngày thứ 8 của hành tŕnh, đi được nhiều nơi. Ngày thứ hai là ngày thứ 9 của hành tŕnh, 14 người chỉ loanh quanh khám phá nốt Lệ Giang đồng thời mua quà cho những người ở nhà.
- 19h40: Chúng tôi thuê xe trọn gói 100Y/14 người để ra ga Lệ Giang bắt tàu đi Côn Minh (tiền vé: 130Y/người, tiền dịch vụ v́ nhờ khách sạn mua hộ: 5Y/người).
Lệ Giang – Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn (30km)
- Chúng tôi thuê xe của khách sạn để đi Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn (100Y(?)/xe  trọn gói cả ngày). Do chặng cáp treo thứ hai lên độ cao 4506m đang sửa nên chúng tôi chỉ có thể đi chặng cáp treo đầu lên cánh đồng ḅ Yak để ngắm ngọn núi tuyết nổi tiếng từ khá xa. Tại đây, “thẻ sinh viên” tiếp tục giúp chúng tôi giảm giá vé vào cửa từ 80Y xuống c̣n 40Y/người.
- Nhưng đó là một ngày thất vọng nhất trong cả hành tŕnh. Chúng tôi gặp một cơn mưa mù mịt ngay khi bắt đầu vào tới chân Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn và chẳng thể thấy được ngọn núi tuyết từ cánh đồng ḅ Yak. Thất thểu ra về, cả đoàn cũng bỏ luôn show “Impression of Lijiang”.
- Buổi chiều, chúng tôi tiếp tục khám phá Lệ Giang một cách tao nhă: đi mua sách, mua đĩa nhạc và đắm ḿnh trong không khí rất đặc trưng của thành cổ không có… tường thành này.
Ngày 8 (30/04/2010): Lệ Giang
- Cả đoàn lại chia làm 2 nhóm, 1 nhóm đi xe đạp (10Y/người), 1 nhóm thuê xe riêng (90Y/ngày) để lần lượt khám phá cổ trấn Thúc Hà, công viên Hắc Long Đàm (vào cửa bằng vé bảo vệ môi trường đă mua khi tới Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn) và thăm thú hồ Lạp Thị (Lashi) trên lưng… ngựa (150Y/người).
 

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Shingrila Oct 7 #Night   2 Reserved? Y/N LPMapPg: 720
Meili Snow Mountain http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/shangri_la/meili.htm
Meili Snow Mountain, also known as Prince Snow Mountain, is located 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) northeast of Deqin County of Yunnan Province. The mountain sits on the border of Yunnan Province and Tibet, where the three famous rivers, namely the Jinsha, Mekong (Nu) and Salwen (Lancang) flow.

Known for the grandest view in Yunnan Province, Meili Snow Mountain boasts numerous snow-clad ridges and peaks, thirteen of which exceed 6,000 meters (19.685 feet) above the sea level. The most splendid view is of the Kawagebo Peak, the highest in Yunnan Province rising about 6,740 meters (22,112.86 feet). It is still a 'virgin peak' for no one has ever reached the top. Thus, Meili Snow Mountain is a challenge for all mountain explorers from home and abroad.

Visitors are treated to spectacular view from all vantage points. The continuous mountain ridges feature snowy peaks and the sun throws golden lights on the low-floating clouds which form various extraordinary shapes, affording yet another splendid view! But mostly, the mountain presents itself as mystery when dense fog and clouds made it a gleaming sight to see and you could hardly resist the temptation to unveil it. You can have a panoramical view of the thirteen towering peaks from the Feilai Temple which is in the west of Deqin County.

From the foot of the Kang Karpo Peak, you see the peculiar low-altitude glaciers formed in modern times. Strong updrafts collide with cloud airflow from the inner continents in this area producing frequent dense fog and heavy snow. The resulting topographic extremes include hanging glaciers, icefalls and snow slides. The Mingyong Glaciers, in particular, rushes from an elevation of 5,500 meters (18.045 feet) down to the forest zone 2,700 meters (8,858 feet) above the sea level in rainy seasons. From afar it looks like a huge white snake wriggling its way among the verdant mountains. On the south side of the peak, a waterfall named 'holy collapsing rain' falls from thousands of meters high. Pure water splashed from snow cracks and with the help of the sunlight, rainbows are often seen hanging above the fall.

Owing to its high altitude, the mountain owns several climatic zones with a diversity of plants, vast expanse of grassland and rich fungi species that are vertically distributed. The types of vegetation here range from the Torrid Zone to Frigid Zone vertically. From the altitude of 2,000 meters (6562 feet) to 4,000 (13123 feet) meters, forests flourish with varieties of spruce. The depth of the forest is an exotic world of rare birds and animals. The meadows surrounding the forests are embellished by countless flowers which add more vitality and charm to the mountain.

Meili Snow Mountain is one of the most sacred mountains of Tibetan Buddhism. 'Kang Karpo Peak' means the God of Snow Mountain in Tibetan, and is a holy land for worshiping. Pilgrims from Tibet, Qinghai Province, Sichuan Province,and Gansu Province travel to the mountain at the beginning of each winter to worship. Thousands of devout pilgrims worship together and encircle the holy mountain, adding even more mystery and loftiness to the mountain

From Shangri-La to Meili Snow Mountain, the best way is to hire a cross-country vehicle. The cost is 400RMB. This is usually the price of hiring for one day. It takes 5-6 hours from Shangri-la to Meili. In fact, there are many vehivles back to Deqin (Meilin) from Shangri-la. If you stay one night in Shangri-la, the hostel owner can help you to find a van with good price. If you travel alone, better to find other tourist to share a van. That will be cheaper. There are public bus from Shangri-La (Zhongdian) to Deqin. From DEqin, there are mini-bus or hire a van to Meili then. It takes longer time to take bus, 6-7 hours perhaps.

Songzanlin Monastery http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/shangri_la/songzanlin.htm
Being the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan, Songzanlin Monastery, also known as Guihua Monastery, is one of the famous monasteries in the Kang region. The monastery is located near Shangri -La County, at the foot of Foping Mountain.
Construction of the monastery began in 1679 and was completed two years later. The monastery seems like a group of ancient castles and is composed of two lamaseries, Zhacang and Jikang. The gilded copper roof endows the monastery with strong Tibetan features and the 108 (an auspicious number in Buddhism) columns downstairs also feature the monastery with characteristics of Han nationality. The main halls in the monastery are magnificent, and on both the left and the right sides are wonderful frescos, depicting Buddhist tales and legends. The inside-halls are exquisite with cloisters running through. The cloisters are all decorated with beautiful sculptures and consummate frescos.The monastery is full of treasures. There are a lot of golden figures of Buddha josses, golden lamps, Tibetan lections, silver censers and so on. All of these are wonderful collections accumulated from each dynasty. They are precious productions made by people of both Tibet nationality and Han nationality.
Songzanlin Monastery has another alias - 'the little Potala Palace ', so named because the whole monastery is in the traditional style with mysterious atmosphere. In 1679, Dalailama chose this place by divination, and it went on to become the uppermost public place in Yunan which features the particular local characteristics. Annually, the Gedong Festival is celebrated here by the Tibetans. Pious believers, with their knees and foreheads knocking the ground at every step, come here to pray
The monastery is situated in the high altitude region over 3,300 meters (about 10,827 feet) high. It snows even in August, and has a rainy season that runs from June through September. Therefore, spring and summer are the best seasons for people to visit it.
Bus route: There are autobuses in Zhongdian County which can take you to this beautiful scenic spot directly, and the buses No.3 can also take you there without stop.
Admission Fee: CNY 30
Recommended
Time for a Visit:
Two hours
Bitahai Lake  http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/shangri_la/bitahai.htm
As the highest lake in Yunnan Province, Bitahai Lake lies in the east of Shangri-La County of Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, and is over 3500 meters (about 3828 yards) above sea level. Covering an area of about 159 hectares (around 393 acres) with an average depth of 20 meters (about 22 yards), Bitahai Lake is famous for its limpid water and its beautiful scenery which is set against the mountains and forests surrounding it.

Bitahai Lake is widely recognized as 'A Pearl on the Plateau' and the most attractive lake in Shangri-La. Legend has it that a goddess dropped her mirror carelessly to the earth when she was making up. The mirror was broken into pieces and they became lakes on the plateau. Among these pieces, the most beautiful piece with green jade turned into today's Bitahai Lake.

In the center of the lake stands an islet shaped like a boat sailing in the lake. The islet is 30 meters (about 33 yards) above the water level, and is covered with rare plants and also includes spruces and rhododendrons. Here, birds twitter happily and flowers release their pleasant fragrances. When stepping on the islet, one feels as if they are arriving at Xanadu, and tourists have frequently remarked about how they have felt intoxicated by the aura, beauty and tranquility.

Bitahai Lake is fringed with rhododendrons of various varieties, which adds to the beauty of the lake. Every year around June and July, petals of the rhododendrons fall onto the lake surface with the wind. When passing fish eat these rhododendron petals (which are slightly poisonous) they can be seen on their backs with their white bellies exposed as they float upside-down amongst the petals as if they are drunk. It is now the best-known sight of Bitahai Lake. It is also said that in the past bears in the nearby mountains often came out in the moonlight to catch these intoxicated fish.

Bitahai Lake is a place of legends. When one is here, one can find that even a tree or a hill around the lake has a story. It is not only a feast to the eye, but also enhances our sense of beauty and our imagination.
Admission Fee: CNY 30
Recommended
Time for a Visit:
Two hours
Baishui Tableland (White Water Terraces) http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/yunnan/shangri_la/baishui.htm
The Baishui Tableland, also named the White Water Terraces, is located in the foothills of the Haba Snow Mountains, 101 kilometers (about 62 miles) southeast of the Shangri-la County. It is known as one of the most attractive destinations in mysterious Shangri-La and is an ancient Chinese landform with a history of 200,000 to 300,000 years.

The variegated landform of the tableland is a continual deposition of calcium carbonate that is contained in the spring water. Every year, the surface of the land is covered by the deposition and finally transformed into the terraced structure you see today. Today, the Baishui Tableland covers an area of three square kilometers (about 741 acres).

The spring water runs down along the slope of the mountain, leaving an impression of a large white jade carving among the green mountain. The tableland lies layer by layer giving the appearance of a terraced field, so the local people call it 'a field left by fairies'. To the left of the tableland, there is a pool and a moon-shaped platform that is said to be the dresser of the fairies. During the autumn, the mountains around the Baishui Tableland will be covered by various bright-colored flowers and leaves. Amid the mountains, the Baishui Tableland will form a spectacular white contrast.

Besides being a beautifully scenic spot, the Baishui Tableland is also the birthplace of Dongba culture of the Naxi Minority Group. According to legend, the first saint of the Dongba Religion was attracted by the fascinating scenery of this place on his way back from Tibet. He then stopped to missionize here. Later, the Baishui Tableland became known as the Holy Land of the Dongba Religion. When the second saint of the Dongba Religion came here, he created the Dongba pictograph. Each year, on the eighth day of the second lunar month, the Naxi people will gather here to celebrate their traditional festival by singing and dancing all day and night.
Admission Fee: CNY 30
Recommended
Time for a Visit:
Two hours

 

Shangri-La Travel Guide http://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/yunnan/shangri-la/
 Baishui (Bạch Thủy ) Tableland
 Bitahai Lake 
 Meili Snow Mountain
 Songzanlin Monastery
 Tiger Leaping Gorge
 
Shangri-La is the "Eden in dream". Since it first appeared in British novelistJames Hilton's Lost Horizon in the 1939, it has been associated withthe mystique of a place which could not possibly exist here on Earth. In Tibetan,Shangri-La means the "sun and moon in heart", an ideal home only found in heaven.There the lofty and continuous snowy mountains, endless grasslands, steep andgrand gorges, azure lakes and the bucolic villages always leave a deep impressionon visitors.
Located at point where Tibet, Sichuan and Yunnan all meet, Shangri-La County is administered by Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province. In the past, Shangri-La was called Zhongdian or "Jiantang" in Tibetan. In ancient times, it together with Batang (in Tibet) and Litang (in Sichuan) was the fiefdom of the three sons of a Tibetan King. In 2002, Zhongdian changed its name to Shangri-La.
At an average altitude of more than 3,000 meters (about 9,843 feet), Shangri-La is very difficult to reach. Without railways leading there, the chief means of transportation is motor vehicles. To get there, tourists will typically begin their journey in Kunming, traveling first to Lijiang and then taking the long-distance bus in Lijiang to Shangri-La. It's about 175 kilometers (108.74 miles) from Lijiang to Shangri-La. On this way, the Tiger Leaping Gorge can be seen.

Shangri-La is inhabited by many different ethnic groups, with the Tibetans comprising the majority of the population. There you will have an opportunity to experience Tibetan life and learn about their lifestyle, religion and cuisine. The unique scenery, highlighted by plateaus, together with the fascinating ethnic culture makes Shangri-La very attractive and charming to visit.

Shangri-La is rich in natural resources from valuable herbs to rich mineral deposits (including gold, silver, copper, manganese and many other rare metals) to abundant animal resources (such as golden monkeys, leopards and musk deer). Shangri-La is a land full of natural wonders.

As a Chinese saying goes, "The earliest sunrise is seen in Shangri-La; and the most unique place is also there". Once you visit, you will fully appreciate the meaning of this saying. In addition, the warm welcome of the residents of this land will make you feel at home

Shangri-La County is divided into two areas: Dukezong Ancient Town and a more modern city-like area. The two areas share Tuanjie Street as the common border. Dukezong, located in the southeast section of Shangri-La, has a history dating back over 1300 years. Almost all the buildings are white in color and feature the Tibetan style architecture. Upon arrival to old town, we recommend you take some time to relax before beginning your tour. A brief introduction to the scenic spots of Shangri-La follows.

Southeast Shangri-La
Main attractions: Wufeng Mountain, Baishui Tableland (White Water Terraces), Haba Snow Mountain and the Tiger Leaping Gorge

Located three kilometers (about 1.86 miles) southeast of Shangri-La, the Wufeng Mountain is revered as a sacred mountain by the local Tibetans. Since the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the grasslands at the foot of this mountain have been used for horse racing events.

If you proceed southeast fro m Shangri-La for about 101 kilometers (62.76 miles), you'll arrive at another well-known attraction, the White Water Terraces. Theterraces are large limestone steps, built up over the years with calcium carbonatedeposited by spring waters which flow down the steps. You can take a bus fromthe Zhongdian Coach Bus Station to the White Water Terraces, or hire a car toget there.

The Haba Snow Mountain, a natural reserve of rare animals and plants, is about 120 kilometers (74.56 miles) southeast of Shangri-La. Both the mountain and theTiger Leaping Gorge are located along the Dianzang Road, on the way from Shangri-Lato Lijiang


The north of Shangri-La
Main attractions: Songzanlin Monastery and Shangri-La Gorge Group

Songzanlin Monastery is five kilometers (3.11 miles) north of Shangri-La. Firstconstructed in 1679 during the early Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), it embodies theessence of the Tibetan Buddhist culture, and its architecture exemplifies thefeatures of the Tibetan style. It's the greatest monastery of Tibetan Buddhismin Yunnan Province. The city bus No.3 can take you there

The Shangri-La Gorge Group is located in the northern part of Shangri-La County. Comprised of a series of gorges, the Birang Gorge is certainly worth a visit. The Birang River flows through the steep gorge and the splashing water from thestrong current immerses the entire gorge in mist. There are many rock paintings on the cliffs of the gorge. Much research was done on the paintings and it wasdetermined that they were drawn by migrating ethnic groups in the ancient times. The gorge is on the way from Shangri-La to Xiangcheng County (in Sichuan), about 103 kilometers (64 miles) from Shangri-La. In the morning, there are buses to Xiangcheng that will let you off at the mouth of Shangri-La Gorge.

The northeast of Shangri-La
Main attractions: Bitahai Lake and Shudu Lake

 Shudu Lake and Bitahai Lake are two of the more accessible lakes in northeastShangi-la. Located within 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) of each other, legend says these "pearls of the land" are pieces of a mirror broken and scatteredby a fairy while she was fixing her makeup.

Tip: Although Bitahai Lake is only 32 km (19.88 miles) from Shangri-La, the bus will only take you as far as Shuangqiao. From there you can either hire a horseor walk to Bitahai Lake

The northwest of Shangri-La
Main attraction: Napa Lake

Napa Lake is located eight kilometers (4.97 miles) northwest of Shangri-La. Severalrivers flow into the lake, including the Naizi and Naqu Rivers. The lake is seasonal in that it is dry in the fall and winter seasons, naturally becoming part of the Yila Prairie. During this time, visitors can see many sheep and cows grazingin the lake bed.

Tip: There are buses which take visitors to Napa Lake or you can take a taxi to get there.

Around Shangri-La
Known for the grandest view in Yunnan Province, Meili Snow Mountain boasts numerous snow-clad ridges and peaks. It is located 10 kilometers (6.2miles) northeast of Deqin County near Shangri-La

Other Info

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Flexible Dali, Lijiang, Shringrila Oct 10 #Night   3 Reserved? Y/N LPMapPg: nnn
1st Choice
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Kunming Oct 13 #Night   xx Reserved? Y/N LPMapPg: 682
Stone Forest
Kunming, the capital of Yunnan Province, enjoys great fame among tourists not only because the region features a consistently warm climate, but also thanks to its wonderful vistas and landscapes. Among the most dramatic of these attractions is the Stone Forest (Shilin), known since the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 A.D.) as the 'First Wonder of the World.'

The Stone Forest is in Lunan Yi Nationality Autonomous County, which is about 120 kilometers (75 miles) from Kunming and requires only a three-hour drive. It covers an area of 400 square kilometers (96,000 acres) and includes both large and small stone forests, as well as many other scenic spots. An old local saying says that 'If you have visited Kunming without seeing the Stone Forest, you have wasted your time.' Truly, the Stone Forest is one of the most important attractions of Yunnan.

Walking through the Stone Forest, visitors marvel at the natural stone masterpieces and are bewitched by the intricate formations. The magnificent, strange and steep landscape creates countless labyrinthine vistas, including:

Major Stone Forest, Minor Stone Forest and Naigu Stone Forest, all of which feature stones in various formations. Animals, plants, and even human figures can be found here. Some are elegant, some are rugged, and each is lifelike with its own distinguishing characteristics.

Subterranean Stone Forest in Zhiyun Cave, an underground stone forest distributed among several caves and occupying a total area of about three square kilometers (720 acres).

Strange Wind Cave, composed of Penfeng Cave, Hongxi Spring and an underground river. From August to November, gales lasting two to three minutes sweep out of the cave every 30 minutes. Long Lake is a karsts lake that is three kilometers (two miles) long but only 300 meters (zero point two miles) wide. The lake features underwater stalagmites and stalactites and a small island in the center of the water.

The source of the Dadie Waterfall, Ba River, is a branch of Nanpan River. In the rainy season, up to 150 cubic meters (196 cubic yards) of water per square inch plummet down the 88 meter (288 feet) drop.

Geologists say the Stone Forest is a typical example of karsts topography. Approximately 270 million years ago - during the carboniferous period of the Paleozoic era - the region was a vast expanse of sea. Over time, the movements of the lithosphere gradually caused a retreat of the waters and the rise of the limestone landscape. Due to constant erosion by the elements, the area finally developed into the present-day Stone Forest. 

Many beautiful legends originate in this magical place, passed along by the native people known as Sani, a branch of the Yi ethnic group. One particular story about the faithful love of Ashima, a beautiful, clever and warm-hearted Sani girl, is the most popular and has been told for thousands of years. The Sani people celebrate their national festival - the Torch Festival - every lunar year on June 24. They take part in traditional performances such as wrestling, bull fighting, pole-climbing, dragon-playing, lion-dancing and the A-xi Moon Dance. During this time, the Stone Forest is alive with a particularly joyful, festive atmosphere, making the area even more attractive than usual. However, the Stone Forest - with its sculptures engraved by nature, herself - is always a true miracle for visitors to behold.
Admission Fee: CNY 175 (including Major Stone Forest, Minor Stone Forest, Naigu Stone Forest, Wannianlingzhi Scenic Area, Bushao Mountain and Liziyuanqing Scenic Area)
Recommended
Time for a Visit:
Two hours
Opening Hours: 08:30 to 18:00

Mr.Wong(Singapore) said: I am going to Kunming next week. Is it possible to visit the Stone Forest on our own by public transport? Is there a direct bus from the City centre? Please advise. Thank you. Hi,Mr.Wong Many minibus run from Kunming to Stone Forest. You can take it from Long Distance Bus Station near Kunming Railway Station. Then you can take tourist bus to Stone Forest. Bus fare: around CNY 26. Time: 1.5 to 2 hours

September 6,2009 Last week I had the opportunity to visit the Stone Forest in Yunnan and I must say that it is/was one of the most beautiful sites I have seen in my many years of travel. I compare it to the RED ROCK area of Sedona Arizona,USA. Its natural formations were inhanced by the well manicured and maintanence of the park, pathways and overall cleanliness. To others: Do not visit Kunming without venturing to the STONE FOREST!!! C.L.Maddox, Illinois, USA

 

Dianchi Lake Scenic Area
The Dianchi Lake Scenic Area is located in the southwest part of Kunming City. Dianchi Lake is, beyond question, the center of the resort. There are numerous attractions along the lake captivating tourists. Among these are the Yunnan Ethnic Villages, Daguan Park, Baiyukou Park, Haigeng Bank, Kwan-yin Hill, Xishan Forest Park, temples and pagodas. Towns, big or small near the lake provide visitors with an opportunity to experience customs of the local people.

Dianchi Lake

Dianchi Lake is about 300 square kilometers (74,132 acres). It is the largest freshwater lake in Yunnan Province and the sixth largest one in China. With picturesque scenery and its location on the Yungui Plateau, the lake has a reputation as 'A Pearl on the Plateau'. Unfortunately, the lake has been badly polluted. Although efforts have been made to save the lake, they have been largely unsuccessful.

The lake is crescent-shaped, about 39 kilometers (24 miles) in length and 13 kilometers (8 miles) in width at its widest. Its natural banks are formed by mountains on all four sides. More than twenty rivers nurture the lake which has a shoreline of 163.2 kilometers (101 miles). Four surrounding hills contribute to the picturesque landscape, making visitors intoxicated and linger around. You may appreciate the beauty of the lake and hills from a boat, and explore this cradle of Yunnan culture.

Yunnan Ethnic Villages

The village acts as a good shortcut to understand the social customs of the ethnic groups in Yunnan. It has a natural sun-bathing area where you can escape from the heat of summer. Twenty-five ethnic nationalities have their respective villages and conduct many activities to present their unique folkways and beautiful clothes. Also you can enjoy the water screen movie and an elephant performance, have a taste of the local dishes and buy pretty handicrafts.

Daguan Park

Daguan Park is vibrant with rock gardens, pavilions, bridges and murmuring water. It is famous for the longest couplets in China on the Daguan Pavilion. The Daguan Pavilion was built in the year 1828. It commands a lovely view. The couplet written in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), contains 180 characters brimming with literary grace. During festival evenings, gatherings take place here.

Baiyukou Park

Baiyukou Park is on the west bank of Dianchi Lake. Here a small hill looks like a white fish opening its mouth to Dianchi Lake. Near the Irregular shore line, beautiful gardens are hidden among green trees. In spring, the cherry trees are in blossom, adding luster to this serene place. Overlooking Dianchi Lake, you can see white sails of boats on the glistening lake and gulls skimming over the waves.

Haigeng Bank

Haigeng Bank is about four kilometers (2.5 miles) long while ranging in width from forty meters (131 feet) to three hundred meters (984 feet). The bank, like a floating jade belt, is in fact a watershed of the Dianchi Lake. Slender willow twigs sweep the lake in the gentle breeze. In the south is a wonderful natural swimming pool which is always crammed with people in midsummer.

Kwan-yin Hill

Kwan-yin Hill is bordered by the vast lake and has an altitude of 2,040 meters (6,693 feet). Lofty peaks on this hill seem to thrust themselves straight towards the sky. A Kwan-yin Temple built here in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) was once a popular resort of Buddhism. Remaining are a seven-tier brick pagoda, houses, and a gate to the Kwan-yin Temple.

http://www.icouple.sg/blog/reading-stuff/3284 

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Khám phá Lệ Giang cổ trấn, công viên Hắc Long Đàm và núi Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn

Toàn bộ thành phố Lệ Giang thực ra rất rộng lớn, nó bao gồm khu đô thị mới (New Town), Đại Nghiên (Dayan) cổ trấn, Thúc Hà (Shuhe) cổ trấn, và Bạch Sa (Baisha) cổ trấn. Thành cổ Lệ Giang hay Lệ Giang cổ trấn hay đô thị cổ Lệ Giang mà người đời vẫn hay nhắc đến chính là Đại Nghiên cổ trấn. Đại Nghiên có nghĩa là Nghiên mực lớn, có thể xem đây là cách ví von thi vị nhưng rất chính xác của người xưa bởi nơi này giống như một nghiên mực khổng lồ, nước từ trung tâm chảy theo những con mương nhỏ len lỏi đến mọi nơi trong thành cổ, tạo nên một trấn cổ có một không hai của Trung Quốc cũng như toàn thế giới. C̣n chữ Lệ Giang có nghĩa là ḍng sông đẹp, tượng trưng cho một phần không thể thiếu trong cuộc sống của người dân nơi đây, đó là nước. Sông Ngọc Hà (Jade Water) mang cái tinh khiết của núi non, chảy quanh thành cổ, chia nhỏ Lệ Giang thành vô vàn ốc đảo, nối nhau bằng 354 chiếc cầu đá; cấu trúc phức hợp đó làm cho Lệ Giang càng trở nên độc đáo trong con mắt khách du lịch.

Người ta ví Lệ Giang như Venice của phương Đông, nhưng người viết cho rằng như vậy là khập khiễng và chỉ đúng về bề nổi mà thôi  Nếu như Venice gồng ḿnh lên chống chọi với sự xâm thực của nước biển th́ Lệ Giang hoàn toàn ngược lại. Cổ trấn này vươn ḿnh dưới chân núi Ngọc Long, đón nhận cái ưu ái trời trao, mỗi ngôi nhà trong thành cổ đều trồng dương liễu rủ bóng xuống ḍng nước nhỏ chạy quanh, tạo nên cảnh đầu ghềnh dương liễu, cuối ghềnh nước trong, vẻ đẹp dịu dàng pha màu cổ tích đó đă qua bao thế kỷ chắc chắn vượt xa với cái nhân tạo c̣n quá trẻ của nước Ư  Nếu muốn so sánh th́ có lẽ gọi Lệ Giang là Tô Châu của cao nguyên sẽ xứng tầm hơn

Lệ Giang được xây vào thời Tống – Nguyên, đến nay đă hơn 800 năm tuổi, cấu trúc đô thị cổ vẫn gần như vẹn nguyên so với ban đầu làm cho giá trị lịch sử và văn hóa của Lệ Giang càng rơ nét hơn. Người có công lớn đưa Lệ Giang nói riêng và Vân Nam nói chung đến với thế giới bên ngoài là nhà thực vật học Áo Joseph Rock (1884 – 1962)  Ông là người đă cống hiến 27 năm (1922 – 1949) nghiên cứu về hệ động thực vật cũng như con người, lịch sử, văn hóa, ngôn ngữ của vùng Tây Nam Trung Quốc này. Những tài liệu quư hiếm kèm theo khám phá vĩ đại ông để lại được coi là nền móng đầu tiên để thế giới biết đến một Vân Nam – Tứ Xuyên đầy sắc màu trong ḷng Trung Hoa rộng lớn. Công tŕnh nghiên cứu về văn hóa Đông Ba (Dongba) hay Từ điển ngôn ngữ Nạp Tây (Naxi) của Rock đến ngày nay được đánh giá là những bằng chứng sống sinh động và đầy đủ nhất về tộc người đă di cư đến Vân Nam hơn 1400 năm về trước. Bằng chiếc máy ảnh phim của ḿnh, Joseph Rock đă ghi lại những dấu ấn lịch sử của vùng đất này từ những năm 1920, so với bây giờ cảnh vật hoàn toàn không đổi khác là mấy! Có 1 trang web khác khá thú vị In the footsteps of Joseph Rock đă theo dấu chân Rock đi qua từng vùng của Tây Nam Trung Quốc nhằm so sánh ngày ấy – bây giờ, bạn đọc có thể tham khảo thêm

Câu chuyện Rock khám phá mảnh đất Tây Nam Trung Quốc làm người Việt Nam thấy có nét thân quen, hay chính là năm 1893 khi bác sĩ Yersin đă góp công khám phá cao nguyên Lâm Viên để ngày hôm nay chúng ta có một Đà Lạt nên thơ đó hay sao!

Lan man cũng đă đủ dài, bây giờ xin cùng bạn đọc khám phá Lệ Giang. Nh́n vào bản đồ Lệ Giang, có những điểm nhấn sau:
- Đi bộ trong phố cổ, hướng đến chợ trung tâm (Square Market), rồi đi ra quảng trường trung tâm (People’s Square) ở tâm bản đồ.
- Nếu đi tiếp lên hướng Bắc là công viên Hắc Long (Black Dragon Park): bên trong là hồ Hắc Long Đàm (Black Dragon Pool) và Ngũ Phụng Lầu (Five Phoenix Hall)
- Phía Tây Nam bản đồ là Mộc Phủ (Mu Fu, hay Mu Family Maison): đây là nơi ở của thủ lĩnh thị tộc lớn nhất Lệ Giang, giờ đă thành viện bảo tàng nổi tiếng nhất ở Lệ Giang.
- Sau lưng Mộc Phủ là Công viên Đồi Sư Tử (Lion Hill Park): trên đỉnh của nó Vạn Cổ Lầu (Wanggu Lou, hay Looking at the Past Pavilion), là nơi cao nhất ở Lệ Giang cung cấp cái nh́n bao quát toàn cảnh về cổ trấn cũng như khu đô thị mới.
- Đi xa khỏi Lệ Giang khoảng 14km là làng Bạch Sa (Baisha village), chính là Bạch Sa cổ trấn ngày xưa, giờ là một ngôi làng cổ nhỏ và yên tĩnh hơn Lệ Giang. Khách du lịch thường hay thuê xe đạp để đi giữa Lệ Giang và Bạch Sa.
- Cách Lệ Giang 30km là núi Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn (Yulongxue Shan, hay Jade Dragon Snow Mountain) cũng là điểm đến thường xuyên của mọi du khách.

Về phần người viết khám phá Lệ Giang được chia làm 2 ngày. Ngày đầu bao gồm cổ trấn, công viên Hắc Long, và xem màn tŕnh diễn Ấn tượng Lệ Giang (Impression Lijiang) ở chân núi Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn. Ngày thứ hai là đi thăm làng Bạch Sa rồi trở lại thăm Mộc Phủ của Lệ Giang và leo đồi Sư Tử (ngày hai sẽ được đăng chi tiết trong số tới

Chú ư: mỗi du khách thường phải mua Vé bảo tồn phố cổ (Old Town Preservation fee) giá 80 RMB/người. Vé này không bắt buộc, nhưng nếu muốn tham quan một số nơi sẽ bị hỏi vé. Vé có thể mua ở các quầy thông tin du lịch (Tourism Information board) trong cổ trấn.

Khoan thai đi bộ trong phố cổ, hít thở không khí buổi sớm trong lành, du khách có thể thưởng thức bữa sáng kiểu Nạp Tây (22 RMB) hay đơn giản là mua bánh bao chay hoặc ngô luộc bên đường. Con đường dẫn đến chợ trung tâm và quảng trường trung tâm phố cổ sẽ đông dần lên

Từ bánh xe nước, hướng tây sẽ đi ra khỏi cổ trấn và vào khu đô thị mới, c̣n hướng bắc là dẫn vào công viên Hắc Long Đàm (Black Dragon Park). Công viên này vào cửa miễn phí, nhưng du khách phải có vé bảo tồn phố cổ, nếu không th́ có thể mua ở cửa công viên. Đường vào công viên

Bên trong công viên, trái với cái tên Hắc Long, là cả một thế giới sống động sắc màu đẹp tươi vô cùng, ở đây dường như thời gian ngừng trôi … hàng cây lá vàng lá xanh rợp bóng, nước chảy róc rách như lụa, mặt hồ nước trong vắt nh́n thấy đáy, mái ngói đỏ xanh chen chúc, cột sơn son thếp vàng

Trung tâm của công viên là Hồ Hắc Long Đàm (Black Dragon Pool), là nơi luôn xuất hiện trong mọi bài viết về Lệ Giang cũng như website, bưu thiếp …. thu hút mọi du khách đến ngắm nh́n và chụp ảnh. Từ năm 1920 khi những tấm ảnh đầu tiên về Hắc Long Đàm được thế giới biết đến qua con mắt của Joseph Rock, nơi đây không mấy đổi thay, xin cùng bạn đọc thưởng ngoạn

Mặt hồ trong sáng như gương, xa xa ngọn núi Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn nổi bật lên với đỉnh núi quanh năm tuyết phủ, như một nét chấm phá thiên tạo vào bức tranh sơn thủy hữu t́nh này. V́ thế cũng dễ hiểu nếu nơi đây luôn là lựa chọn số một cho việc chụp ảnh mẫu hay ảnh cưới

Người ta nói rằng nước trong Hồ Hắc Long có 2 màu: từ phía Nam nh́n th́ nước hồ màu xanh, c̣n từ phía Bắc nh́n th́ nước hồ lại có màu vàng, hai vùng nước này tuy nối liền nhưng cá giữa hai nơi không bao giờ qua lại. Có đến tận nơi nh́n tận mắt mới hiểu cách nói ví von này

Tiếp tục đi ṿng quanh hồ, du khách có thể vào thăm Ngũ Phượng Lầu (Five Phoenix Hall) đậm màu Phật giáo hay bảo tàng Văn hóa Đông Ba Nạp Tây (Museum of Naxi Dongba Culture)

Tham quan Hắc Long Đàm cần khoảng nửa ngày để du khách có thể đi bộ hết và chụp ảnh  xong xuôi rồi th́ đích đến tiếp theo sẽ là núi Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain). Núi này nằm cách Lệ Giang 35km, có thể đi xe buưt số 7 ở gần tượng đài Mao Trạch Đông trong khu phố mới (10RMB/người) hoặc thuê xe taxi hay xe tải nhỏ của người địa phương để đến núi (20RMB – 40RMB).

Nếu bạn đọc theo dơi cuốn Lonely Planet – China sẽ thấy thông tin về núi Ngọc Long khá lộn xộn, mong là bài viết này sẽ giúp bạn đọc có cái nh́n rơ ràng hơn  Núi Ngọc Long nói chính xác là một quần thể núi lớn mà nổi bật nhất là đỉnh Ngọc Long (cũng giống như đỉnh Phan Xi Păng trong dăy Hoàng Liên Sơn hay ngọn Everest trong dăy Himalayas vậy). Để vào được quần thể núi này, du khách phải trả 80RMB/người tại trạm thu phí. Từ trạm thu phí này đi sâu vào 14km nữa là điểm dừng đầu tiên mà người ta tổ chức tŕnh diễn “Ấn tượng Lệ Giang”. Tiếp tục đi xe vài km nữa sẽ đến điểm dừng thứ hai gọi là Hải Bằng (Dry Sea Meadow), du khách có thể đi cáp treo (giá 170RMB) lên độ cao 3100m vốn là vùng hồ cạn hơn 2 thế kỷ. Điểm dừng thứ ba trên lộ tŕnh xe là Vân Sơn Bằng (Cloud Fir Meadow), ở đây du khách có thể đi cáp treo (giá 160RMB) lên độ cao 4500m rồi từ đó trèo lên tiếp để ngắm nh́n khung cảnh rộng lớn xung quanh. Điểm dừng cuối cùng và xa nhất (hơn 60km từ Lệ Giang) là Mao Ngưu Bằng (Yak Meadow), ở đây cáp treo rẻ nhất (60RMB) và sẽ lên độ cao 3500m; các tour du lịch từ Việt Nam đi Lệ Giang đều có địa điểm này trong danh sách  Bản thân người viết không có ư định chinh phục độ cao nên không đi hết các vùng sâu trong núi mà chỉ dừng ở điểm đến thứ nhất để xem ‘Impression Lijiang’ ^^

Đường vào núi Ngọc Long cực đẹp, hai bên là thảo nguyên mùa đông, mặt trời đứng bóng, ánh nắng chói chang, nhiệt độ ngoài trời khoảng 15 độ, v́ chênh lệch độ cao nên tai hơi ù và chóng mặt ít nhiều do không khí loăng. Biển báo sức khỏe, made in Chinese style

Đôi nét về màn tŕnh diễn Ấn tượng Lệ Giang: ‘Impression Lijiang’ là màn tŕnh diễn hoành tráng với sự tham gia của 500 vũ công và 200 ngựa giữa sân khấu đá dựng ngoài trời ở độ cao hơn 3000m so với mực nước biển, lấy phông nền trực tiếp chính là đỉnh núi tuyết Ngọc Long, tái hiện lại cuộc sống cũng như những nét lịch sử văn hóa độc đáo của người Lệ Giang  Đạo diễn của ‘Impression Lijiang’ không ai khác chính là Trương Nghệ Mưu (Zhang YiMou), cha đẻ của những kiệt tác màn bạc Trung Hoa như Anh hùng (Hero), Thập diện mai phục (House of flying daggers). Màn tŕnh diễn này được ông và cộng sự Fan Yue và Wang Chaoge thai nghén trong nhiều năm nhằm quảng bá và vinh danh cho nền văn hóa ngh́n năm tuổi của Lệ Giang nói riêng và Vân Nam nói chung. Ngoài ‘Impression Lijiang’, Trương Nghệ Mưu c̣n dàn dựng hai màn tŕnh diễn ấn tượng khác là ‘Impression: Liu Sanjie’ ở Quảng Tây và ‘Impression of West Lake’ ở Hàng Châu, trong chuyến khám phá Trung Quốc lần sau nhất định người viết sẽ đến xem

‘Impression Lijiang’ kéo dài 1 tiếng 30 phút, tŕnh diễn 2 lần mỗi ngày: 10:30 sáng và 1:30 chiều, nắng sẽ phát mũ, mưa sẽ phát áo, rất hiếm khi nghỉ nên du khách đến bất kể mùa nào trong năm cũng có thể xem được. Giá vé là 190RMB/người (~ 28 USD), tuy không rẻ nhưng hoàn toàn xứng đáng để thưởng thức một không khí hoành tráng có một không hai giữa thiên nhiên núi non hùng vĩ. (Chú ư: màn tŕnh diễn sẽ không có tiếng Anh mà chỉ có 2 màn h́nh ở 2 góc hiển thị thông tin về mỗi màn mùa

Để quay lại Lệ Giang, du khách có thể đi taxi từ chân núi hoặc đi xe buưt 7, nên lưu ư là taxi sẽ hết rất nhanh c̣n xe buưt th́ không phải lúc nào cũng có! Ngoài ra có thể đi bộ ra đường lớn rồi vẫy bất kỳ xe nào chạy về hướng cổ trấn. Người viết làm như vậy và về đến cổ trấn với phí tổn 10RMB sau khi nhảy lên 1 xe tải nhỏ chở hàng 

… Rời núi Ngọc Long Tuyết Sơn mà ḷng c̣n vấn vương … trong đầu vẫn ngân vang âm hưởng trống giục từng hồi và h́nh ảnh những vũ công nhảy múa trên nền trời xanh thẫm như một bức bích họa tạc vào không gian, con người tuy nhỏ bé nhưng lại rất mạnh mẽ … cảm phục cái tài đạo diễn của nghệ sĩ họ Mưu, càng thêm yêu thích nét văn hóa Nạp Tây của trấn Đại Nghiên ^^ Bài viết ngày 3 xin dừng ở đây, hẹn bạn đọc tiếp tục khám phá Lệ Giang ở bài viết sau

 

 
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